Boer goat farming
Here's a comprehensive, realistic guide on keeping Boer goats—designed to feel like something you'd hear from an experienced farmer. It covers everything from housing to health, based on practical knowledge.
A Realistic Guide to Keeping Boer Goats
- Why Choose Boer Goats?
Boer goats are the beef cattle of the goat world—big, meaty, and fast-growing. Originally from South Africa, they're known for:
High growth rate
Excellent meat quality
Hardy constitution
But they’re not magical creatures. They still need good care, smart management, and a decent amount of work.
- Getting Started: What You Need Before Bringing Them Home
Land and Space
Pasture: At least ¼ acre per goat is a solid rule of thumb, especially if you want to rely partly on grazing.
Fencing: Boer goats are strong and curious. Use woven wire (at least 4 ft high) or electric fencing. Don’t assume they won’t test it—they will.
Shelter: A basic 3-sided shed is fine in warm climates. In colder or wetter areas, a barn or enclosed structure with ventilation is better.
Local Laws & Neighbors
Check for zoning laws and property restrictions.
Let neighbors know. Boer bucks especially can be loud and smelly during breeding season.
- Feeding Boer Goats
Pasture vs. Supplemental Feed
Goats are browsers more than grazers—give them shrubs, weeds, and brush over plain grass if you can.
Supplement with alfalfa hay (high in protein), goat pellets, and loose minerals.
Fresh water daily. Use heated buckets if you’re in a freezing climate.
Don'ts:
No moldy hay or feed.
Avoid high corn diets—it can cause bloating.
No copper-free minerals (goats need copper, unlike sheep).
- Daily and Weekly Care
Daily:
Check for limping, snotty noses, or droopy ears—signs something’s wrong.
Refill water, hay, and minerals.
Quick headcount—Boers can find escape routes you didn’t even know existed.
Weekly:
Clean shelters
Check hooves for trimming needs (every 4–6 weeks on average)
Observe feces (goat poop tells you a lot—should be firm pellets)
- Breeding Boer Goats
Sexual maturity: Does can breed at 7–10 months, but it’s smarter to wait until 12 months.
Gestation: ~150 days
Kidding season: Provide a clean, dry pen. Keep kids warm and dry. Watch for issues like kidding difficulties and ensure they nurse quickly.
- Health Management
Vaccinations:
CDT vaccine (Clostridium perfringens types C & D + Tetanus)
2 shots for kids starting at 6 weeks, then annual booster
Talk to a local vet for region-specific advice
Common Issues:
Worms: Big one. Do fecal tests and deworm based on actual need. Over-deworming causes resistance.
Coccidiosis: Especially in kids. Prevention via medicated feed or water additives.
Foot rot: Keep hooves trimmed and bedding dry.
- Handling and Behavior
Boers are generally calm, especially compared to dairy breeds.
Treat them often and handle regularly to make future care easier.
Bucks can be pushy during rut—don't let them develop bad habits early.
- Equipment Checklist
Hoof trimmers
Goat collars (breakaway)
Water troughs/buckets
Hay feeders (keep hay off the ground)
First-aid kit (thermometer, antiseptic, syringes, etc.)
Birthing/kidding supplies if breeding
- Selling and Meat Production
Boers are raised mostly for meat. Ideal slaughter weight is around 80–100 lbs (4–6 months old).
Know your market—live sales? Direct to butcher? Local ethnic markets?
Good confirmation and fast growth get better prices. Learn how to recognize good genetics.
- Final Advice from a Farmer's Mindset
Don’t go overboard starting out—get a few and learn.
Build systems that make daily care easy, especially for bad weather.
Be ready to get dirty, lose a goat now and then, and learn on the job.
But also be ready to fall in love with the work. Boer goats can be goofy, tough, and oddly lovable.