A Practical Guide to Keeping and Feeding Dorper Sheep
If you’re thinking about raising Dorper sheep, you’re in for a good time. These hardy animals are low-maintenance, adaptable, and known for their fast growth and quality meat. Whether you’re new to sheep or looking to switch breeds, here’s a straightforward guide based on what works in the field — not just in books.
- Why Dorper?
Dorper sheep were developed in South Africa, and they’re built tough. They’re a cross between Dorset Horn and Blackhead Persian, which means:
They shed their wool (no shearing needed),
Handle both heat and cold well,
And grow fast — some reach slaughter weight in under 6 months.
They’re mostly raised for meat, not wool, so if you’re aiming for meat production, they’re an excellent choice.
- Setting Up: Housing and Fencing
Shelter:
Dorper sheep don’t need fancy housing. A three-sided shed to block wind and rain is enough. Good ventilation is key — sheep hate dampness more than cold.
Bedding:
Use straw or dry hay as bedding. Change it regularly to keep things clean and reduce parasite risk.
Fencing:
They’re not escape artists like goats, but keep fences tight. A five-strand electric wire or strong mesh fence (about 4 feet tall) works well. Watch for gaps at the bottom — lambs are curious and sneaky.
- Feeding: What Dorper Sheep Actually Need
Pasture First:
If you’ve got good pasture, you’re halfway there. Dorpers do great on grass, and they love to graze. Rotate pastures every couple weeks to let grass regrow and to cut down on parasites.
Supplementing Feed:
In dry seasons or poor pasture, supplement with:
Hay — good quality grass hay or alfalfa. Don’t feed moldy hay.
Grain (optional) — corn, oats, or sheep-specific pellets. Not essential unless you’re fattening lambs or feeding pregnant/lactating ewes. Feed grain slowly to avoid bloat.
Minerals:
Provide a sheep-specific mineral block or loose minerals. Never use cattle or goat minerals — they can have too much copper, which is toxic to sheep.
Water:
Always have clean water available. Sheep won’t drink dirty or frozen water, and dehydration can cause all kinds of issues.
- Health and Routine Care
Deworming:
Internal parasites (worms) are the biggest health threat. Use fecal tests to check parasite loads and only deworm when needed. Overuse of dewormers leads to resistance.
Vaccinations:
At minimum, vaccinate against clostridial diseases (like CDT vaccine). Do this when lambs are around 6-8 weeks old, with a booster 4 weeks later.
Hoof Trimming:
Trim hooves every couple months to prevent rot, especially in wet seasons.
Breeding:
Dorpers breed year-round. Rams can handle about 30-50 ewes. Gestation is about 5 months, and ewes often twin.
- Lambing Tips
Dorper ewes usually lamb with little to no help, but it’s still good to be around. Give them a clean, dry area. After birth:
Make sure lambs nurse quickly,
Dip umbilical cords in iodine,
And keep an eye out for weak lambs or ewes with trouble passing the placenta.
- Final Thoughts
Raising Dorper sheep isn’t overly complicated — but like any livestock, they do best with consistent care and attention. They’ll repay you with solid meat returns, strong genetics, and fewer headaches than fussier breeds.
Start small, get to know your flock, and build your system around what works in your area. The more time you spend with your animals, the better you’ll get at spotting issues before they become problems.
Click here to buy Dorper sheep management book